This past weekend I revisited the stunning Southern Upland Way in Scotland as I took on the Ultra Scotland 100 miler, organised by GB Ultras. After running the whole of the Southern Upland Way from coast to coast in 2024, I was looking forward to revisiting sections I ran in the pitch-black last time, in the daytime and taking in more of the stunning scenery as well as reminiscing along the way from the previous year’s adventure.

Ultra Scotland 100 was my 2^nd leg of 4 of my attempt at the 2025 GB Ultras 100 mile Grand Slam.

Once again, my trusty friend, Dave H was supporting me for this race, especially needed when a race is point to point. It saves dropping the car off at the finish and navigating to the start line or leaving the car at the start line and navigating back there once I finished.

We travelled up on the Friday evening after work. Setting off just before 6pm, it was a two and a half hour drive to our hotel, just outside Dumfries. We arrived there just after 8:30pm, checked in, dropped the bags off and set out for food. Fish and Chips was the easy solution, which was swiftly dealt with before an early night.

The alarm was set for 4am. As usual, sleep the night before a race is always difficult, so I was awake before my alarm, but still had a solid 4 or 5 hours sleep which would be sufficient. Washed up, dressed and checked the weather outside. 95% rain had been forecast all day until at least 7pm, so I was pleasantly surprised to see it dry, mild and zero rain. Coffee and breakfast put away and we jumped in the car for the 25 min journey to the start line in St Johns Town of Dalry.

The small town was bustling and busy with runners and supporters, all registering and collecting their race bibs and trackers. The midges were already out, something I’d heard about, but not witnessed in the previous years visit thankfully. I picked up my race number, number 480 and collected my tracker then had a quick catch up with friends as we made our way over the bridge to the start line.

Next to the small river, waiting at the start line, the midgie population intensified! I couldn’t wait to get going to get some relief. A short delay of 5 mins or so and we were off.

The first obstacle was the very small, shaky foot bridge over the river which had a maximum weight bearing load of 8 people. So, the sprint was on to not get caught in the que to cross. I put my foot down and managed to cross in the first group of 8. I continued up the trail to the village roads which was a gradual climb and was now feeling some relief from the midgies. A long day lay ahead.

The start to checkpoint 1, Stroanpatrick was 8 miles, the ground was soft and boggy but easy going. Nothing much to report over this section, as I just focused on keeping my heart rate low and settling in for the day. The rain still held off and I arrived at checkpoint 1, 15 mins ahead of my target. Filled the bottles and was swiftly off again.

The route to check point 2 was much of the same but included some forestry trails and the first decent climb of the day. Now the midgies were everywhere, making running very uncomfortable. At times I had to run through swarms of them, and they all stuck to my skin and clothes. They got everywhere, in my eyes, ears, mouth and beard. Any skin on show was eaten alive. I could feel the little bites all over my legs and squinted my eyes as I ran to stop them going in.

With the first climb conquered, I made it into check point 2, the Chalk Memorial Bothy, 18 miles in, still 15 mins ahead of my target. The midgies were still rife as I topped up my bottles. They were starting to annoy me!

I pushed on, knowing hot food was available at the next checkpoint and a chance to reset. I enjoyed witnessing this part of the Southern Upland Way in the day light after running it through the night in the Race Across Scotland last year. A lot of this section was downhill and very runnable. I browed a hill and seen the town of Sanquhar in the distance, looked to the left and could see the rain that had been promised all day, closing in fast. As soon as the first rain drops were felt, I put on the water proof coat before the torrential downpour hit us. I was actually thankful for the rain because the midgies were gone, the air had cleared and the rain felt refreshing.

I arrived at check point 3, Sanquhar town hall, 26 miles in, at around 11am. Now half an hour ahead of my target. I took my time. I took off my wet shoes and socks and let my feet dry for a while. The hot soup was good and washed down with a coffee. I reset everything here, dry buff, dry socks, restocked food and bottles and was ready to go. I spent around 20 mins in the check point, mainly because the rain was still bouncing down and I thought it would be time well spent.

There was a steady climb out of Sanquhar and this next section was a little better under feet and was generally up and down. The rain eased off and then stopped not long after setting out and the sun was out again, making the route more enjoyable. Eventually I picked up the road which took me to checkpoint 4, Wanlockhead community centre, in the highest village in Scotland.

I arrived at check point 4 at around 1:30pm, bang on my target time. Hot soup was on the menu again and that was washed down with another coffee and some milkshake. I spent about 15 mins in the check point again, drying my feet and changing my socks, mindful of a hot spot on the ball of my right foot.

The next section was a decent climb up over past the golf ball. Feeling good and on a high, I pushed up the hill with a strong pace and made the most of the very runnable downhill into check point 5.

As I arrived into check point 5, Biggar, 40 miles in, the hot spot I’d been feeling on my right foot for the last 10 miles was a little painful, so I knew some foot admin was needed. I sat down and took my shoes and socks off and was greeted with a blister the size of a tennis ball which encompassed the ball of my foot. It had popped, so I cut the loose skin off with some scissors and applied some talc. I dropped 2 pain killers to take the edge off and restocked on supplies. The pain relief was instant. Cutting the skin away worked.

The next section was a short one and check point 6, dear reservoir came and went quickly. Check point 7 would mark the half way point and I wanted to get there before 7pm to make sure I could get the big climb in before nightfall.

I started the long winding downhill into Beattock and arrived at the village hall, check point 7 at 7:45pm. 45 mins later than my target. I took 15 mins to reset and refuel, thinking I may just make the time up if I took the time here. This time, cheese on toast and a coffee was on the menu and this was followed by some fruit and milkshake.

I left the check point and met my crew a mile down the road. I took my headlamp out of my dry bag and put it in a front pocket where I would be able to locate it easily later. I changed my clothes, socks and hat and pushed on for the big climb.

Having took on this climb in the dark in 2024 at the Race Across Scotland I was keen to see it in the daylight. I pushed through the wooded area which soon become forest. I seen 4 runners coming towards me and initially thought I had made a navigational error. Luckily, I hadn’t, and they were working their way back to check point 7, having missed it and needed to return there to continue. Nightmare!

The climb pushed through the forest, winding back and too, before eventually breaking into a clearing and then a final push up over the top. I made it to the top just before the sun set and it got dark. I made my way down the steep winding path of ‘cats shoulder’ and put on my head torch. It was now nearly 11pm and was nearly pitch black. I could see the trail of headlamps before me, as the rocky, slightly technical path followed a small valley into another forest.

Picking up the forest roads, running was still good, and the trail was mostly packed and downhill. Eventually I reached the bothy where I had slept, the previous year and could see a couple of runners taking shelter. I pushed passed and knew it was a 9km slog to the next check point and it was all road. I just had to get my head down and grind on.

Check point 7 to 8 was the biggest section at 17 miles in distance and included the biggest climb on the route. So, I knew reaching check point 8 would be a big milestone and the back of the race would be broken. I reached check point 8, Boston Memorial Hall, 72 miles in at around 1am.

I was now feeling the same hot spot on the ball of my left foot, so was fearing the worse as I arrived. I took off my shoes and socks and was met with the same issue I had earlier with my right foot. I cut the loose skin off with scissors and put on some dry socks. Again, I took my time and made sure I was reset for the early morning shift. Some food, a coffee and some milkshake and a change of shoes which would hopefully be a little more forgiving on my sore feet.

I don’t recall much of the next section. I just put my head down and grinded it out in the dark. Eventually as I approached St Marys Loch I was met by my crew which I didn’t expect. A good chance to take on some extra food and drinks and have a chat to break up the section.

The sky was now getting lighter, it was around 3am. As I reached the other end of the Loch the early morning sky was now light, and I turned off the head torch. I could see check point 9 in the distance.

I arrived at check point 9, St Mary’s Loch, 81 miles in at 4am. Now 2.5 hours over my target but feeling good with the exception of my sore feet where the blisters had been. I topped up my supplies and pushed on.

The sun had started to rise, and the tiredness started to disappear. I enjoyed the warm early morning sun and the views as I made my way to Traquair. I hadn’t seen any other runners for a couple of hours. The route was mainly field crossings and well-marked trail and eventually I could see the village in the distance. I picked up the main road and jogged into the village.

I arrived at the last check point, check point 10, Traquair village hall at around 6am. Still 2.5hrs behind my target but still feeling strong. No full English breakfast was on the menu, so I opted for the irish stew. 2 cups of coffee and some fruit. Now 91 miles in and the last push.

I took a layer off as it was starting to warm up and made the steady climb out of Traquair village. Soon enough I hit the first summit of the last climb and picked up the pace on the downhill. Next it was the steep climb to the three brethren. I reached the top and took a minute to take in the views. Took on some fluids and filled my face with percy pigs. Fuelled and ready for the 5km downhill dash.

I pushed onwards and downwards and eventually hit the bridge and the signpost for the public footpath to Galashiels. That meant 4km to go! I totally forgot about the naughty climb up into the fields, which took more than I expected out of me, now it was mid-morning and getting warmer. I reached the top and could see the town of Galashiels in the distance. I crossed the couple of fields and picked up the trail through the woods.

Eventually I popped out of the woods onto the roads and could see the finish line on the field at the Community Centre. Superb!

I crossed the field and moved my battered feet as quick as I could over the finish line.

The relief was immense as I was nervous going into this race knowing my last outing was a DNF at UTS100 and I had doubted my ability ever since. I’m glad I shut them doubts down and got this one completed.

A stunning race, but needs to be respected and the weather will change no matter what month you are in. The midgies are a pain, expect them for the first 20 miles. Sections are wet and boggy so extra socks are needed. Trench foot is a real risk on this route, so be prepared.

The stats

Position: 24^th

Total Time: 29hrs 15 mins

Total Distance: 168km / 105miles

Total Elevation Gain: 5,300m / 17,388ft

Midgie Bites: 157 Midgies Eaten: too many